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1.2 服装的造型设计
服装造型设计是服装设计思维和想象力的表现,不仅能够体现出服装的品位,更能突出服装的风格,因此服装的造型设计对服装设计起着重要的作用。如果服装过于重视细节,就会忽略外轮廓设计,会削弱服装的个性。本节介绍服装造型设计的两种造型方式:字母型外轮廓和几何型外轮廓。
字母型外轮廓效果如下所示。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0001.jpg?sign=1738854697-Pe2cuJSrkgNINByOJJTkG2IxsERGEcyb-0-4df2b7011f8f943d57ddbe5b27d5d2c2)
A形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0002.jpg?sign=1738854697-GQ1R7EkJINyJ5482VK5ZBkKvjakDLbVH-0-6b526f64b6b1fc8358ff5a1b7d62f8e8)
O形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0003.jpg?sign=1738854697-ZXNHxAnPoZeUUN4YPV0x2e3qHebqBo8P-0-cc21e7638626e01d7a3fbc11f8fa9149)
H形外轮廓
几何型外轮廓效果如下所示。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0004.jpg?sign=1738854697-4H0IYXBpQIUE0RyBNOnV6tA0uAegFU6V-0-cfeb746e500382169824fb4af1c8c77d)
正梯形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0005.jpg?sign=1738854697-fSsbMMX4utE7otQgu3BZyonGtS4znYwc-0-39028b166d3b8a65aa6aab57944fb9a4)
方形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0006.jpg?sign=1738854697-dupIYuSPUR2hqHKJLESfcXoPnsC6byxK-0-24dd89830ac434ca0514063f2fcc8eed)
倒梯形外轮廓
1.2.1 字母型外轮廓
轮廓是服装外部造型的剪裁,可以呈现出服装的结构风格及款式,给人以直观的视觉冲击,其重要性不言而喻。字母型外轮廓可分为V形外轮廓、H形外轮廓、A形外轮廓、X形外轮廓、S形外轮廓和O形外轮廓。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0001.jpg?sign=1738854697-90UCEHPXIvlNJF2MWM3ld7Qxgjkd8s4U-0-9e8ba008d734e7ab457b55211191d75d)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0002.jpg?sign=1738854697-PW11tIkcAq6SEylIQ3ddoydXaX2gfkBv-0-1754ce9e3d6a9c3ba0e496eec206bdcc)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0003.jpg?sign=1738854697-SnXVDKLhSaG9UkQcvBL9eQj8k3WlGfeK-0-a856a802cbea9f1d91766704f068f29e)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0004.jpg?sign=1738854697-Lqt7sB27gscoHJlNysPakRyvP8XrrCky-0-7b40e72431e409853cf666f6ac50c2c2)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0005.jpg?sign=1738854697-qbbcuTbzBQcnbdbUtbtR1oraVWawRCeD-0-af591f97f0a54c1fce087b4923c71870)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0006.jpg?sign=1738854697-Z9J8ELBroHIn7ELAWHww97zylnBug6Rx-0-f214b05b938130f621e5d88f53bbdf9e)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0007.jpg?sign=1738854697-mzrQXbHO9nFG6E8dFl7eyAZbQFCOFV35-0-da2063fca8373f7ec9b6c9ea0d333168)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0008.jpg?sign=1738854697-TQzlTXZmtLVH97qUaFFajQUqDQnVOteJ-0-a5566bf2d14bf571e6608db6cf0c57d2)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0009.jpg?sign=1738854697-5LoSDC1PQCjacpNnp3o8v5aJWd1y9IGP-0-93cdb15ec99d1ef873e0b644657f0efc)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0010.jpg?sign=1738854697-Zylon0VTClyTh5deTUE4XtTlJHBsattx-0-20f0375fa43ae90d493047be9cb7cbd2)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0011.jpg?sign=1738854697-KPj2sHbBFG8cFJ7RLITTNh4M7OhSp2EB-0-2c9c9fd42d7aca82eae7806047796fb8)
1. V形外轮廓
V形外轮廓肩部较宽,向下则逐渐变窄。V形轮廓外形大胆,个性独特,带有阳刚之气。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0001.jpg?sign=1738854697-IdqLbqTMYVgtxVc4RztOUTKJvRQM7xjb-0-c4346eeb7b4c027e99f1a12bb379faee)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0002.jpg?sign=1738854697-uLZT5R0U8Mg7nIWA5ij12sGrxG3w6elg-0-9798bddec620407bf32cd7d734ffe303)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0003.jpg?sign=1738854697-ZJVMZ5FzyfnbJfWtoSYWl5t9Wxc3wgne-0-402ff09e3a7f84f00e8f946a13668686)
2. H形外轮廓
H形外轮廓是一种平直轮廓,以肩部为受力点,弱化了服装整体的宽度差异,能给人以简约、严谨的感觉。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0004.jpg?sign=1738854697-2hNfYbU08cQRj1n4pzEterBCYS00BCKS-0-d3d8849d808301b694eca715c53e9cfc)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0005.jpg?sign=1738854697-a1l0rgfIUVmUJBDHGxY7kBl6AjOgAh6P-0-7a7515bf8f23af75028d70446513b4fe)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0006.jpg?sign=1738854697-so8iVllvyjxKugXDxGGivX0BTbFLOoRh-0-4044b091ff6cd2dbb86079100b1eb207)
3. A形外轮廓
A形外轮廓是一种上窄下宽的平直造型。一般这种轮廓的服装肩部较窄或是裸肩,下摆则肥大宽松;裤装则以紧脚踝、肥腿为特征。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0001.jpg?sign=1738854697-i69vQ7pPsgXGLYamSIVANS6dCm8KUIvu-0-902114c63cd3dcc129334adb7717a5ed)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0002.jpg?sign=1738854697-S0bIxdgaW3detWcFj65yq3ilSfDDZYRZ-0-81a8ed29d024c7bc0d10f05a400ddc25)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0003.jpg?sign=1738854697-TAM0lQpcDXpPxa72e8jqWgnPZLuUVOq6-0-dcf35b7b9486be5d7394539c82cad5ff)
4. X形外轮廓
宽松的肩部、紧致的收腰、自然宽松的下摆是X形外轮廓的特征。该外形的服装设计最能体现出女性的优雅气质,具有优美柔和的女性风格。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0004.jpg?sign=1738854697-0qOgX9bre9HvVAC10CHXzed5kXeSEIFj-0-f5800dd5bd5cc304c458ce06c3c0ce26)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0005.jpg?sign=1738854697-oAM3NZgwpecDGSVLD8CuEM6gcR7M4Uha-0-c7705e0da592cbc2f91d9019e42e78df)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0006.jpg?sign=1738854697-w5ep5aK0JSkIUMdw8AWuBX7vxrShQcrq-0-5ac06265873c3962f5011fe591f50acb)
5. S形外轮廓
S形外轮廓能够将女性身体的曲线勾勒得更加完美,大大提升女性最迷人性感的魅力,又可以体现出女性特有的柔和、典雅感。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0001.jpg?sign=1738854697-GJM2LkrBInSBF3XwVkNflsTu6hKuKTig-0-b6eb4e5af1b7270d4536c7139a6600f8)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0002.jpg?sign=1738854697-zOFx51zmjNgKR3pjhMQpoROJbcPIKWn9-0-60de5bc4f6b365e5fab39410227142a5)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0003.jpg?sign=1738854697-fAhiG3B46RPS51CtgR7eoVMTmPFlSEmR-0-05187f158b5fbf555900699a2ae903e8)
6. O形外轮廓
上下收紧的椭圆形状是O形外轮廓的特征,呈现出丰满的视觉效果,可以巧妙地隐藏身材的缺陷,充满时尚的气息。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0004.jpg?sign=1738854697-KCDx1N22QPYbJc4nojT9udHZ1A7RERye-0-3025c91f95cdf60a26cdbdc9a1a6128d)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0005.jpg?sign=1738854697-e03Ui0ZV1d3C1IJmSJbo5555h36YJzHe-0-ac81f50e74843d92ed9c85f66a5799e0)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0006.jpg?sign=1738854697-Ex9qjVmKUC3BJlEkE6SWXO75cT7xNsZx-0-f90e19a25e0d8a04a641707e337b3096)
1.2.2 几何型外轮廓
服装造型是按照审美要求塑造的立体形象,是由点、线、面、体赋予的“形、色、质”组合的最终形体。服装造型以人体和人体动态为基础,由造型和轮廓两个部分构成,尤其是外轮廓和内部结构结合,呈现出一个整体的视觉形象。下面来欣赏几种几何型外轮廓,分别是方形外轮廓、正梯形外轮廓和倒梯形外轮廓等。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0001.jpg?sign=1738854697-SheqFeZhkR1QklNR9JxK9ZtUqbssetKT-0-216cc5e4b045d82572f2299c1af41c42)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0002.jpg?sign=1738854697-1MCQhHz3aICeS0L7Qvddt7LYNcn2zPPd-0-2f1e5285a092a19a6af0f31fc5a7a791)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0003.jpg?sign=1738854697-muALLheIkOJU4tJaCMRbnZ6vFQo4YC21-0-4b53bee8e65dddfc94354536b84aa43d)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0004.jpg?sign=1738854697-MPT2DdTewvjVvZM3m8roNLr2iXo6mekm-0-b1c2d9c6262bbb109c17a832984fa10f)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0005.jpg?sign=1738854697-ErP4IXAh8Y4BVCqchdl86FygrmU4vh6z-0-ee0fca909631f4d98019e9544c62b5f5)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0006.jpg?sign=1738854697-lCoztDrDSgD9UfKu2mfp2CBo4v7v77nP-0-06ae22b35b89c4b108e2506b6a3af3d2)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0007.jpg?sign=1738854697-a2HANkEVUY72Vl59CzohMmJIu3GyuLcM-0-2bacc7286b3ad6bf1da04417a86799b8)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0008.jpg?sign=1738854697-eAf18PYbIUfZ5JUXm8jItXOQntKojz8k-0-1182931b079444cd76c241bf7002b472)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0009.jpg?sign=1738854697-OueqeBLg2911Eo2LxZlrVQ3g6OHLJI6Y-0-01c786a1ddde686f8adb2d0bcf79e563)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0010.jpg?sign=1738854697-n8poIjiIRbdF2XRXZel8fYrsaAxb3Q7w-0-5f79be80e0b1baed0ea54ecda2fca320)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0011.jpg?sign=1738854697-5lPGi46roCut3GNYEtfPL0KzdH424XqW-0-5af3701e68bf274bdd67a47e480fc6a1)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0012.jpg?sign=1738854697-7xMgodrfwpCUFSfua0bHizLTx3HCQcYE-0-14dc4a8fcca7fb2303676d6a19b69f05)
1.方形外轮廓
几何形状是一切事物造型的基础。方形外轮廓以简洁、单纯的创作手法产生极致、富于美感的视觉效果。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0001.jpg?sign=1738854697-vG1an8V9AFk0gNLl3sARtNOkRAhj79FL-0-5c6bd4b76c35adb7c6579cb695a0fc8a)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0002.jpg?sign=1738854697-PEWYVWpgWtcj1Yc5J9PqJ89YEkI3vsHW-0-ca23053889c9c123ded43e36593aefce)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0003.jpg?sign=1738854697-m2Z7Cs9O6j4qSDzIQwGHkrDDZFjhaAwt-0-5ec549ff3b7b6dd22e5fb64cc838fab7)
2.正梯形外轮廓
正梯形外轮廓将肩部修饰得偏窄,下部则有些宽松,是常见的服装款式。它具有鲜明、活泼、雅观的特点。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0004.jpg?sign=1738854697-ObYZeyjPsuyWiZgowv7EDbi4KZzj09T8-0-dd64d9a75449e1f0815112c70c0767d0)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0005.jpg?sign=1738854697-Qf4oCTitgspAKsqP6tgjBfLmNdcIfr7Q-0-bec7340307915365a2e86fedbd9f111e)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0006.jpg?sign=1738854697-NIxpaTrJEtOq3LVQUo5sgUQSfkNHKGJw-0-8fda300370f3564a6a1d6c2b1db4e48c)
3.倒梯形外轮廓
倒梯形外轮廓正好与正梯形外轮廓相反,整体上宽下窄。它具有简洁、庄严、大方的特点。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0007.jpg?sign=1738854697-zhDyK2WijtAmWNloyjRzVaHoV5UAGWXQ-0-3de9fcb0124fcb20b6baaf1704697f63)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0008.jpg?sign=1738854697-dmuFsUzCvpTdSQc28YU8BMY7c9711tl4-0-c14e3c44fb9a4d9f4afa750bc8ddb40f)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0009.jpg?sign=1738854697-OapRq2ItCDgLoy5DJxLZlB410b7WQ5sk-0-1a33328eee0c56a6671b1cb2f31334c6)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0010.jpg?sign=1738854697-OpBDc3MG7EEBFFOb5NEfkD8wygLikV3v-0-eaf077b455df23fa462692963f1024d6)